I notice alot of interest in Madiran and SW France wines out there. I even write about them from time to time. Researchers claim they are good for the heart, and correspond to regions with good male longevity. Darby’s comment on my Pellehaut article even suggests Uruguay as a good source of Tannat rich wine, with its magic artery friendly ingredient, procyanidins. Most interesting and no doubt all true. But let’s be wary of over-marketing or jumping to conclusions: first, life expectancy is high in other parts of France without the Tannat, which suggests something else at play, eg general diet, moderation, and other good wines; second, trade figures show the Japanese prefer Burgundy (even at times when the Yen was low they raised their orders!) and have low heart disease. One Madiran convert even suggests quitting bland Burgundies. Absurd, really, for though I agree, there are bland Burgundies, there are also far more excellent Burgundies for the reasonable prices, eg 10-20 euros from the Beaune region or Côte Chalonnaise, and stupendous First Growths (Premier Cru) for just over 20; third, while a great drink, good Madirans are to good Burgundies what a fun Renault Clio is to a Renault Espace; and finally, not sure about Madirans, but compared to Bordeaux, Burgundies I am convinced are an aphrodisiac, which is also probably good for the heart! Maybe a good idea is to mix them all. Santé.
January 15, 2008
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RJ you are right to be sceptical of the more rabid claims about the so called benefits of any new wonder drug, diet, food or fad. However I think the case for the benefits of Tannat are a little stronger than most.
My comments about tannat are based on the work of Dr Roger Corder and is set out in has book The Wine Diet. The author is Professor of Experimental Therapeutics at the The William Harvey Research Institute.
Your comment about France having an overall higher life expectancy than other countries (such as USA and UK, but not Australia) is true, but the data that Corder bases his argument on is comparative data between the 84 departments of France. The discrepancies in longevity between departments WITHIN France are what Corder calls the Real French Paradox.
The case for Gers, the department which includes the Madiran appellation, is very strong. It has a longevity index (proportion of men aged over 75) of 16% above the national average. The next highest is the department of Ariege with a discrepancy of 12%, no other department has a discrepancy greater than 8%. The departments around Bordeaux are close to the national average.
Clearly something is different about Gers, but this does not prove that the consumption of Tannat based wines is the reason, or even one factor among others. More than one line of inquiry is needed to build up a convincing argument.
Corder sets out further evidence based on the analysis of wines and in vitro experiments showing the effects of procyanidins on vasoconstrictors. His work supersedes the earlier suggestions that resveratrols were the active ingredient in health giving wines.
The case is not watertight (or winetight) yet but it seems that procyanadins are very likely to be the ingredient that protects us against heart disease and other maladies.
Drawing conclusions from comparison to Japan is very difficult. There may be genetic factors at work and the diet is completely different.
All is not lost though RJ, you can get similar benefits from eating plenty dark chocolate, pomegranates and cranberries. That way you can survive into a blissful old age enjoying the taste and aphrodisiacal effects of your burgundies, without having to drink those big Tannats.
Cheers
Comment by Darby Higgs — January 15, 2008 @ 11:17 pm